Tutorial Archives - Hunter's Design Studio

Tutorial for Colorblock LOVE – Putting it Together

Sam Hunter — Tue, 10 Sep 2019 12:25:10 +0000

This a tutorial for the Colorblock LOVE pattern, specifically how to assemble the 4 blocks into a quilt top! This post is also part of the Colorblock Love QAL!

Please refer to the pattern for all measurements! If you’re making the Kinship + LOVE version (buy your Kinship: 100 Block Fusion Sampler here), follow the steps in the Addendum (pages 9-11).

Refer to Sewing Long Seams Without Stretching Them for tips on sewing these blocks together. If you keep the stretching to a minimum, the quilt will lay flat, and you (or your long-arm artist) will have an easier time with the quilting!

Refer to page 7 of the pattern for drawings of the final assembly, or page 11 of the addendum if you’re making the Kinship + LOVE version.

Before you sew these together, take a quick look at the #colorblocklovequilt and hashtag on Instagram. A few people have used some sashing between the blocks, and it looks fabulous! Remember, this is YOUR quilt, so you get to finish it YOUR way!

And on to your final top construction:

At this point, you’re essentially dealing with a GIANT four-patch!

Sew V and E together, and press towards the E:

Sew L and O together, and press towards the L:

Pressing the seams in opposite directions allow you to “lock” them and nail the intersection of all four blocks:

I’m not normally a drill sergeant about accuracy, but in this quilt, missing the center points by more than a thread or two will eyeball you. If you can live with being eyeballed by your quilt points, carry on! If not, pin it tight and sew slowly to keep it in line!!

This is my Kinship + LOVE version:

This colorfully sashed version is by Linda Timms of Blue Barn Quilt Co:

Don’t forget to post your work on Instagram! For Colorblock LOVE use #colorblocklovequilt , #colorblockloveqal (or #colourblocklove if you speak the Queen’s English!) and if you’re making the Kinship + LOVE version, add #kinshiplovequilt .

If you post your quilt according to the instructions here, you’ll be in the running for some lovely prizes!

The post Tutorial for Colorblock LOVE – Putting it Together appeared first on Hunter's Design Studio.

Tutorial for Colorblock LOVE – Making the E

Sam Hunter — Tue, 10 Sep 2019 12:23:03 +0000

Sorry, your browser doesn't support embedded videos.

This a tutorial for the Colorblock LOVE pattern, specifically the E block. This post is also part of the Colorblock Love QAL!

Please refer to the pattern for all measurements! If you’re making the Kinship + LOVE version (buy your Kinship: 100 Block Fusion Sampler here), follow the steps in the Addendum (pages 9-11).

Before starting this step, you’ll need to cut out and label all the sections for it (page 3). Refer to the Cutting Long Strips tutorial for help as needed.

I like to work with a design wall or any other surface that’s big enough to hold all the pieces I’m working with. If you don’t have a permanent design surface available, any flat surface will do. And if you need to be able to move your project around in pieces, I recommend using a cheap, flannel-backed, plastic table cloth (available seasonally at most chain craft stores). The fabric pieces will adhere to the flannel, and if you need to roll it up, they don’t stick to the plastic.

Lay out all the parts of the E block, placing them in the space and orientation they should have when sewn.

Refer to Sewing Long Seams Without Stretching Them for tips on sewing this block. If you keep the stretching to a minimum, the block will lay flat. Flat blocks make for easier quilting!

I recommend pinning the seams on this block as they’re just long enough to be easy to stretch. More pinning = less ripping, so if you hate ripping seams, get generous with your pins!

The E constructs like a strata. It’s a hunk of strips sewn one on top of the next, with a finishing strip down the side. Start with the top piece, sewn on the next one down, and the next, etc. (Refer to page 4 for the sewing order.) The think to watch for here is to perfectly align the top and bottom of the strips, so the edge doesn’t sneak into a funky diagonal that is not longer straight.

Press every seam as you sew. I usually press to the side, and press towards the dark, but feel free to press open or in any way that fights with you the least. Just be sure to PRESS, okay?!

Keep sewing the strips, following the pattern:

https://huntersdesignstudio.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/LOVE-E.mp4

If you’re making the Kinship + LOVE version of this pattern, your assembly will look like this:

https://huntersdesignstudio.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/Kinship-Love-E.mp4

And boom! You have an E block! Give it a good press all over, and put it aside for final assembly of your quilt.

The post Tutorial for Colorblock LOVE – Making the E appeared first on Hunter's Design Studio.

Tutorial for Colorblock LOVE – Making the V

Sam Hunter — Tue, 10 Sep 2019 12:21:08 +0000

Sorry, your browser doesn't support embedded videos.

This a tutorial for the Colorblock LOVE pattern, specifically the V block. This post is also part of the Colorblock Love QAL!

Please refer to the pattern for all measurements! If you’re making the Kinship + LOVE version, follow the steps in the Addendum (pages 9-11). Note that for the Kinship + LOVE version of the pattern, there are no Kinship blocks in the V, so it’s not different from the main pattern.

Refer to the Cutting Long Strips tutorial for help as needed.

While the rest of the blocks in this quilt go together quite simply, the V has some bias to contend with. For our newbie quilters, bias is when the cut edge of the fabric is not on the straight grain, and it doesn’t run parallel or square to the threads in the weave of the fabric. The GOOD thing about bias is that it stretches; and the BAD thing about bias is that it stretches too! Thus, we can gently stretch a bias edge into submission when we need to, but we must be careful to not stretch it too far. Don’t let the bias edges intimidate you – we have some cool tricks to handle them. Read on!

So let’s start with piece V1, the main body of the V:

Follow the instructions at the top of page 5 of the pattern to fold this piece for cutting, and make sure your measurements match the drawing! If you don’t get the fold going in the right direction, your V will have the wrong proportions, and you’ll be shopping for replacement fabric!

Mark the line you’ll be cutting; this helps a lot when your ruler or mat aren’t long enough, and you can see from the picture below that I have to turn this a little on the 36” mat! Note that I paired up a couple of rulers to cover that long line:

Nice reflections in the ruler of my hands taking the picture! And cut along the line:

I like to put the pieces up on a design wall or any other flat surface as I work:

Look back on page 5, and start sewing the strips to match the drawings in the middle of the page. Refer to Sewing Long Seams Without Stretching Them for tips on sewing this block. Press at every seam:

Make sure they are mirror image to each other, per the drawing!

This is what you should have before we do the cuts to the side sections:

Now is a good time to stiffen these side sections with some spray starch or sizing like Best Press, if you have some.

Clean up the end of the strip set by taking off the selvedges, if you haven’t already done so. Don’t be too generous with that cut though, as you need 40 1/2” left on your V2 strip once the selvedge is removed.

Stacking up rulers as needed, make the markings noted in the drawings at the bottom of page 5. This is the mark for the point that will become the lower corner of the V block:

If you don’t have enough rulers to stack, use any other decent tape measure:

Mark the cut lines:

NOTE: The next photos are of a different quilt! A couple of people experienced some bigger stretching issues with the V block and asked me how to solve that after I had finished the purple quilt. Thus, the next few pictures are of an orange quilt, so bear with me!

At this point, and especially if you have not added any starch or sizing to this section, we’ll add some temporary “stay stitching” to these side sections. For our newbie quilters, stay stitching is used in garments to hold an edge together that might have some bias, and to keep it from stretching. I tested actually stitching this line, and it introduced a bit of stretch that made me grumpy, so I don’t recommend stitching. BUT… I found out you can run some tape inside the stitching line and it holds the edges from stretching well enough to piece the block into the quilt. In a pinch, you could also iron freezer paper to the section to hold it steady.

Thus, run a line of removable tape (painters tape, washi tape) about a 1/2” inside the cut line (not too close because you don’t want to sew on the tape):

Keep the tape on until you sew the V block into the quilt top!

OK… back to the purple quilt pix… just pretend they all have tape on them!

Cut out the side sections, along the marked line:

Repeat the lines, tape and cuts for the other side, remembering that it’s a MIRROR IMAGE:

Now to sew the sides to the body of the V. Begin by pinning the ends together, letting the points of the side section intersect the V body by about a 1/4”:

Pin GENEROUSLY, easing these two seams until they fit together. Yes, it’s OK to stretch them a TINY bit, but don’t pull them any more than needed to make them fit. And it’s OK to lift up the tape if it’s stopping you from easing. What does GENEROUS pinning look like? It looks like one pin for every width of your hand at a minimum. And use pins, not clips, because fabric can’t slide under a pin the way you can make it slide under a clip. Why do this? Because more pinning means less ripping. And you DON’T want to rip these seams if you don’t have to, as they’ll stretch even more!

Sew the seam, being careful not to stretch it as you go. Give it good press, but try not to press the tape in case in makes a sticky mess:

Sew the second side to finish the V, repeating the steps above:

And if you still have the tape on yours, it should look like this:

https://huntersdesignstudio.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/LOVE-V.mp4

Now the V is ready to be set into your quilt top!

The post Tutorial for Colorblock LOVE – Making the V appeared first on Hunter's Design Studio.

Tutorial for Colorblock LOVE – Making the O

Sam Hunter — Tue, 10 Sep 2019 12:18:38 +0000

Sorry, your browser doesn't support embedded videos.

This a tutorial for the Colorblock LOVE pattern, specifically the O block. This post is also part of the Colorblock Love QAL!

Please refer to the pattern for all measurements! If you’re making the Kinship + LOVE version (buy your Kinship: 100 Block Fusion Sampler here), follow the steps in the Addendum (pages 9-11).

Before starting this step, you’ll need to cut out and label all the sections for it (page 3). Refer to the Cutting Long Strips tutorial for help as needed.

Lay out all the parts of the O block, placing them in the space and orientation they should have when sewn.

Refer to Sewing Long Seams Without Stretching Them for tips on sewing this block. If you keep the stretching to a minimum, the block will lay flat. Flat blocks make for easier quilting!

You can probably sew the first couple seams of this block without pins, but once they start getting longer than the table space in front of your needle, break out the pins. More pinning = less ripping, so if you hate ripping seams, get generous with your pins!

The O constructs like a traditional Courthouse Steps block, building out from the center in opposite pair of pieces. If you think about the directions of a compass, the pairs are sewn alternating East/West, then North/South, back to East/West, and so on.

So start with the center rectangle and add the first 2 strips on the right and left sides of the center (refer to page 4 for the sewing order).

Press every seam as you sew. I usually press to the side, and press away from the center block, but feel free to press open or in any way that fights with you the least. Just be sure to PRESS, okay?!

Sew the next pair of pieces to the top and bottom of the section you just sewed.

Keep sewing the strips, following the pattern:

https://huntersdesignstudio.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/LOVE-O.mp4

If you’re making the Kinship + LOVE version of this pattern, your assembly will look like this:

https://huntersdesignstudio.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/Kinship-Love-O.mp4

And boom! You have an O block! Give it a good press all over, and put it aside for final assembly of your quilt.

The post Tutorial for Colorblock LOVE – Making the O appeared first on Hunter's Design Studio.

Tutorial for Colorblock LOVE – Making the L

Sam Hunter — Tue, 10 Sep 2019 12:15:32 +0000

Sorry, your browser doesn't support embedded videos.

This a tutorial for the Colorblock LOVE pattern, specifically the L block. This post is also part of the Colorblock Love QAL!

Please refer to the pattern for all measurements! If you’re making the Kinship + LOVE version (buy your Kinship: 100 Block Fusion Sampler here), follow the steps in the Addendum (pages 9-11).

Before starting this step, you’ll need to cut out and label all the sections for it (page 3). Refer to the Cutting Long Strips tutorial for help as needed.

Lay out all the parts of the L block, placing them in the space and orientation they should have when sewn.

The L constructs like half of a traditional log cabin block, building out from the center. So start with the center rectangle and add the first strip (refer to page 4 for the sewing order).

Refer to Sewing Long Seams Without Stretching Them for tips on sewing this block. If you keep the stretching to a minimum, the block will lay flat. Flat blocks make for easier quilting!

You can probably sew the first couple seams of this block without pins, but once they start getting longer than the table space in front of your needle, break out the pincushion. More pinning = less ripping, so if you hate ripping seams, get generous with your pins!

Press every seam as you sew. I usually press to the side, and press away from the center block, but feel free to press open or in any way that fights with you the least. Just be sure to PRESS, okay?!

Keep sewing the strips, following the pattern:

https://huntersdesignstudio.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/LOVE-L.mp4

If you’re making the Kinship + LOVE version of this pattern, your assembly will look like this:

https://huntersdesignstudio.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Kinship-Love-L.mp4

And boom! You have an L block! Give it a good press all over, and put it aside for final assembly of your quilt.

The post Tutorial for Colorblock LOVE – Making the L appeared first on Hunter's Design Studio.

Tutorial – How to Make Long Cuts

Sam Hunter — Wed, 04 Sep 2019 14:08:08 +0000

This post is also part of the Colorblock LOVE tutorial series, and the Colorblock Love QAL!

There comes a time in your quilt-making adventure where a pattern will call upon you to make a cut that’s longer than your mat or ruler.

Usually, a 24” mat is all you’ll ever need, until you need to make a 30” cut. But rest assured, you can make a cut that’s longer than your mat. Read on for some tips…

Prep the fabric

I’m in the camp of not washing my fabric before I use it (unless I’m making a garment, in which case I wash all the shrink out of it first) so my fabric usually has that little bit of stiffening from the manufacturing process. This is sizing. It’s a bit like like starch, though less crispy, and gives fabric a bit of firmness. The firmer hand means your fabric will wiggle and stretch less than if it was freshly washed. If you prefer to wash your fabric first, then add the sizing back in before you cut it. You can also add starch or sizing to unwashed fabric to give it a boost of firmness before cutting anything long or tricky.

Good old-fashioned spray starch in a can is good when used sparingly, but often quilters use a newer product called Best Press. It comes in different scents (my preference being UN-scented!) and works well in places where you need a more stable fabric – and specifically for long strips that become part of long seams. Use according to the instructions (especially the part about having a clean sole plate on your iron) and start out sparingly until you get used to it.

Align the fabric to your mat

Many of us have been taught to fold fabric in half twice to cut it on a mat that is 18” tall. But every time you fold a fabric, you add another opportunity for inaccuracy to creep in. If your folding technique is not spot-on, you’ll cut a strip that resembles a chevron! Thus, my preference is to fold the fabric only once, selvedge to selvedge.

You can work with this on a smaller mat by rotating the mat to be 24” tall. Your fabric is probably no wider than 44”, which means 22” folded in half, which will fit nicely on a 24” mat.

Fold the fabric once, selvedge to selvedge, and align the fold to a line at the bottom of your mat, with the selvedges at the top. Aligning to the fold will give you the least chance of cutting your strips in to a V shape. I’m right-handed, so if you’re a leftie, these pictures will be a mirror image for you.

Align the ruler to the mat, and make your first cut to give yourself a clean edge.

Cut the strips

ALWAYS have the “good” part of the fabric under your ruler – the part that you’re cutting for, not the leftover. This way, if you veer off or wiggle, you don’t wiggle in the part you need. Also, because we put pressure on the ruler as we cut, what’s underneath doesn’t move much and gets cut more accurately. Wiggling isn’t so critical if you’re cutting a 2” strip (hopefully your pattern gave you a generous fabric quantity) but of you make a wiggle with an 8” cut you might be in danger of needing to shop for more.

If your cut is wider than the ruler you have – for example, you have a 6” ruler, but you need an 8” cut – then stack two rulers together to get the width you need. Place them side by side (in this case a 6” ruler and a 6” ruler) then measure the 8” you need as if the rulers were fused together. Then, firmly holding the ruler closest to the cutting line, cut.

A side note… if your cutter grinds rather than swishes, or you have to go over a cut twice, you NEED a new blade. RIGHT NOW. They are less than the price of a frothy drink at a local cafe, and they are worth every penny in terms of your safety. Read here for more about maintaining your cutters, and here for why you need to close them!

Trim the strips

And now, for the fun. You have a 24” mat, and need a 30” strip. Here are a couple of ways to do that.

Method 1

First, take the selvedge off one end of the strip.

Lay it out on the mat, aligning to the zero line at one end and smoothing it across the mat, along a line. You want the fabric to be neither taut (stretched) nor wrinkly (loose). You might need to go back and iron out the fold in the middle. Flat fabric is CRITICAL to the accuracy, so put some time into making sure you get it flat. At the 24” mark, put a pin in the strip.

Scoot the strip so the pin is at the zero line. Measure out the remainder of the strip – 6 more inches if we’re aiming for a 30” strip – and then cut.

There’s a chance that you’ll be a couple of threads over or under the 30” mark with this, but in the big picture of quilting accuracy, I don’t think this shows up in a way that harms the quilt. When sewing 30” seams, there is ALWAYS easing going on, so a couple of threads-worth has very little impact.

Method 2

Fold the strip so that the part on top is an inch bigger than half the measurement needed. Let me explain with our 30” example: you need a 30” strip, so half of 30 is 15, plus 1 equals 16”. Fold the strip so the top part is about 16”, and the bottom is the rest of the strip.

Align the fold to the zero line. Measure out 15” (half of 30”) and cut. This preserves the remaining strip for something else.

If you don’t care about the leftovers of a long cut, just fold the strip in half, align the selvedges, and cut measuring from the fold. You’ll get 2 smaller leftover pieces instead of one bigger one.

And there you go – a nice 30” strip!

In closing: while I’m a big fan of not owning more than I need in the tools department, I also believe in being equipped as best I can be to make my sewing life easy on me. Thus, my studio includes a 24” x 36” mat, and I have 24” and 36” rulers. If your space and budget allow for a larger mat and ruler, I highly recommend getting them – they’ll make a lot of things a little easier, which, in turn, will make your sewing time more fun!

The post Tutorial – How to Make Long Cuts appeared first on Hunter's Design Studio.

Tutorial – Sewing Long Seams Without Stretching Them

Sam Hunter — Sun, 01 Sep 2019 10:00:49 +0000

This post is the first in the 2019 Back to School Blog Hop, and also a tutorial for the Colorblock LOVE QAL!

This is a tutorial for sewing long seams on any quilt.

What’s a long seam? Anything that’s longer than the space you have between the front edge of your machine or table and your needle.

Long seams present an opportunity to introduce stretch into a quilt, and too much stretch is never a good thing. So let’s look a few tips for keeping stretch at bay.

Here’s a quick 10 minute video, and in it I’ve covered all the points below – so you can either read about it, or watch it!

Sewing machine set up

One of the best things you can do to increase your accuracy in general is to expand the bed of your machine. This means get some surface in front of your needle at the same height as the machine bed. You can do this by having the machine in a drop-in sewing table or cabinet, or by adding a supporting table around it. Some machines come with a portable table, and there are some after-market companies like Sew Steady that make them for any machine (in several sizes). Your local sewing machine store will have solutions so pop in and talk to them about it. It’s a solid investment in your accuracy, as I’ll show you a bit further down this post!

Pins

Pinning is ALWAYS a good practice. And by pinning, I don’t mean using clips. Clips are a great solution for really thick things (like the top of a bag or tote with additional layers of batting), but pins are the best solution for precision piecework. Once a pin is in place, it’s very difficult to pull one of the layers out of alignment.

Where should you pin? In all the places that matter: at a minimum, pin each end, and pin the middle. To find the middle, fold the edge where the seam will be in half, and pin or pinch a crease into the middle. Do this on both pieces that make up the seam, and then align and pin the middles once you have pinned the ends.

After that, pin all the places that have to match up, like the points and intersections of blocks.

And then after that, add more pins until you have one every 4 to 6 inches, or about the width of your hand. Yes, this seems like a lot of pins to fuss with, but fussing with pins usually keeps you from fussing with the seam ripper. If you slow down to pin, you seldom need to slow down to rip!

How you hold the fabric

No, this isn’t some secret handshake thingy, it just about having a soft hand with the fabric as it approaches the needle. We often put tension on the fabric as it feeds into the needle – pulling away a bit – but this makes the machine try to grab the fabric while we tug in the opposite direction. And this stretches the fabric.

Instead, line up your work in front of the needle, and hold the layers together in just the space between the edge of your table and the needle, and rather than tugging them away from the needle, hold them down on the table gently as you sew up to your hand. UP TO your hand… not OVER it! And if you didn’t watch the video yet, go do that and this will make more sense!

It’s really frustrating to invest your time and money into making a quilt to have it come out stretched and fitting together poorly. It’s worth taking a few moments to set yourself up for better accuracy because sewing is always more fun when things come together well, and without too much struggle, or seam ripping. Having fun while making things is so important!

Please follow the rest of the 2019 Back To School Blog Hop! Note that these industry peeps are all over the country and world, so be patient if you don’t see their post first thing in *your* morning!

Day 1 – September 1 – Sam Hunter: Sewing Long Seams Without Stretching – huntersdesignstudio.com <<—- you are here!

Day 2 – September 2 – Susan Arnold – Joining Binding the Easy Way – quiltfabrication.com

Day 3 – September 3 – Angie Wilson – Fussy cutting tips and techniques – www.gnomeangel.com

Day 4 – September 4 – Andi Stanfield – No-Mark HST: Let your machine be your guide – truebluequilts.com/blog/

Day 5 – September 5 – Bobbie Gentili – Say YES to Y-seams – geekybobbin.com

Day 6 – September 6 – Mel Beach – 5 Reasons to Say Woo Hoo! to School Glue – pieceloveandhappiness.blogspot.com

Day 7 – September 7 – Laura Piland – 7 Ways to Use a Laser on Your Sewing Machine – www.sliceofpiquilts.com

Day 8 – September 8 – Suzy Webster – How to solve loops in free motion quilting – www.websterquilt.com

Day 9 – September 9 – Tara Miller – Accurate Stitch-and-Flip Corners – quiltdistrict.com

Day 10 – September 10 – Latifah Saafir – Accurate Seams Using Masking Tape! – latifahsaafirstudios.com

Day 11 – September 11 – Sarah Ruiz – The Magic of Glue Basting – saroy.net

Day 12 – September 12 – Jen Shaffer – Ways to stop your ruler from slipping while cutting – patternsbyjen.blogspot.com

Day 13 – September 13 – Cheryl Sleboda – Basics of ruching (a vintage fabric manipulation technique) – muppin.com

Day 14 – September 14 – Raylee Bielenberg – Choosing quilting designs for your quilt – www.sunflowerstitcheries.com

Day 15 – September 15 – Jen Strauser – Accurate and Attractive Machine binding – dizzyquilter.com

Day 16 – September 16 – Jane Davidson – Matching points for all types of intersections – quiltjane.com

Day 17 – September 17 – Teresa Coates – Starch and starch alternatives – teresacoates.com

Day 18 – September 18 – Jen Frost – Benefits of spray basting – faithandfabricdesign.com

Day 19 – September 19 – Sandra Starley – Getting started with Hand Quilting – utahquiltappraiser.blogspot.com

Day 20 – September 20 – Karen Platt – Drunkard’s Path Made Easy – karenplatt.co.uk/blog/

Day 21 – September 21 – Kris Driessen – All Kinds of Square (in a Square) – scrapdash.com

Day 22 – September 22 – Sarah Goer – Planned Improv Piecing – sarahgoerquilts.com

Day 23 – September 23 – Kathy Bruckman – Organizing kits for on-the-go sewing – kathyskwiltsandmore.blogspot.com

Day 24 – September 24 – Cheryl Daines Brown – The Secret to Flat Quilt Tops: Borders – quilterchic.com

Day 25 – September 25 – Cherry Guidry – Pre-assembling fusible applique – cherryblossomsquilting.com

Day 26 – September 26 – Laura Chaney – Getting started with English Paper Piecing – prairiesewnstudios.com

Day 27 – September 27 – Ebony Love – Cutting Bias Strips from a Rectangle – lovebugstudios.com

Day 28 – September 28 – Tammy Silvers – Working with heavier weight threads in your machine – tamarinis.typepad.com

Day 29 – September 29 – Kathy Nutley – Create a perfect facing or frame with 90 degree angles – quiltingsbykathy.com

Day 30 – September 3 – Joanne Harris – Using Leaders and Enders – quiltsbyjoanne.blogspot.com

The post Tutorial – Sewing Long Seams Without Stretching Them appeared first on Hunter's Design Studio.

Coming soon – the Back to School Blog Hop – 2019 Edition!

Sam Hunter — Wed, 28 Aug 2019 15:15:21 +0000

I’m delighted to announce that the Back to School Blog Hop will be back for 2019!

I’ve lined up 30 stops with a great group of my industry friends and colleagues for the month of September, and we’ll be sharing tips, tricks, and techniques that will make your quilting and sewing projects a little easier.

I hope you follow along! And a quick note… these industry peeps are all over the country and world, so be patient if you don’t see their post first thing in *your* morning!

Here’s the team and their topics:

Day 1 – September 1 – Sam Hunter: Sewing Long Seams Without Stretching – huntersdesignstudio.com