We Are $ew Worth It Archives - Hunter's Design Studio https://huntersdesignstudio.com/category/we-are-ew-worth-it/ Cool patterns + wordy stuff! Thu, 17 Aug 2023 20:29:15 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.6.2 79720629 Resolution: Decide that YOU MATTER https://huntersdesignstudio.com/resolution-decide-that-you-matter/ https://huntersdesignstudio.com/resolution-decide-that-you-matter/#comments Thu, 19 Jan 2023 14:44:26 +0000 https://huntersdesignstudio.com/?p=23069 Sometimes I think I should stop reading the internet at year's end: the wildly mixed bag of both cautionary and encouraging articles are all well-timed pressure for Resolution Season, just in case you need to add one more way to achieve unattainable perfection to your list. I didn't close the browser fast enough on a [...]

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Sometimes I think I should stop reading the internet at year’s end: the wildly mixed bag of both cautionary and encouraging articles are all well-timed pressure for Resolution Season, just in case you need to add one more way to achieve unattainable perfection to your list.
I didn’t close the browser fast enough on a past December day, and so was down the rabbit hole of an article about a (seemingly healthy) woman’s fatal heart attack.
Why this article and not all the others about how to hide more vegetables in my desserts? It hits closer to home: I’m a woman who has survived a heart attack, and lives managing a couple of genetic, chronic heart conditions with an assist from implanted borg parts. And besides, I already have a superb carrot cake recipe in my bag of tricks 🙂
And so to Anne, the woman in the article. She was enviably fit, and quite vested, we’re told, in staying so. Her friend, the writer, eulogized her beautifully, telling us also about the big emotional heart this lovely woman shared with the world.
And then (emphasis mine):
“But one afternoon… Anne rode her bike, climbed off, and complained of nausea and fatigue. Her right arm ached. Blaming indigestion, she took Tums. They didn’t help. She vomited. Her husband suggested urgent care. She declined.
The next morning, Anne collapsed in their bathroom and could not be revived.”
I read this and was furious. FURIOUS. Yet another woman died because she didn’t get help. By all accounts, she was doing everything right to earn her ticket to a good life, except perhaps that one teensy-weensy little issue of putting herself at the top of the list.
My guess is she thought she would be embarrassed if it turned out to be nothing (a mistake I almost made during my heart attack 15 years ago).
Or maybe she was over-committed with extra holiday tasks and felt she just didn’t have time to be sick. Or knew that she couldn’t get time off without a notarized letter from an honest politician, inked in the blood of a rare breed of poisonous snake.
Or maybe she knew an ER trip would wipe out her emergency savings and still not meet her deductible.
Or she thought that, as fit as she was, SURELY it wasn’t serious.
On the long list of things that mattered, perhaps she didn’t put herself in the top five.
It’s impossible to know what reasoning added up to not taking a trip to the ER, and honestly, I believe the ways we’re running our society, harmfully and destructively, are the major culprits here:
  • Your self-worth is defined by your productivity, so you better pack your calendar until it squeaks.
  • Your right to take rest must be earned; resting is for the weak and the lazy; taking sick leave or vacation is discouraged.
  • Women are expected to sacrifice themselves for the good of family, job and society, and not rock the boat. Don’t be a bother.
  • Corporate profiteering matters more than taking care of people.
  • Women’s heart attacks have different symptoms, and women presenting with heart issues are taken less seriously (“You’re just anxious – have you tried meditation?”). I had classically male heart attack symptoms and was still told by a male doc that they were going to take out my gall bladder because I was “overweight, over 40, and female.” Talk about misogynistic profiling.
The most massive failure of all is that we have been conditioned to believe we don’t matter enough to make a fuss over how we feel.
So I have just one resolution for you, one to rule them all:
DECIDE THAT YOU MATTER
That’s it.
It’s the key to everything else on your list anyway, including the hallowed extra veg in your desserts. And yes, please lavish love on yourself with the occasional piece of carrot cake.
But seriously: I urge you to resolve that YOU matter this year; that you will take time to listen to your body, and take time to get checked out if anything feels out of sorts.
Self care is NOT selfish.
You are NOT a bother.
You BELONG at the top of the list of things to take good care of.
*********
I urge you to read the complete article because the author weaves in strong women-specific info from a cardiologist.

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Should You Take Ambassadorships? https://huntersdesignstudio.com/should-you-take-ambassadorships/ https://huntersdesignstudio.com/should-you-take-ambassadorships/#comments Wed, 30 Mar 2022 17:44:14 +0000 https://huntersdesignstudio.com/?p=19904 If you enjoy this post, I write more posts like this on my Substack, How to Own a Revolutionary Craft Biz.  Check it out! Note: I often write for my industry, and this is one of those such times.  The start of a year means the announcement of new brand ambassadorships! If you've ever thought [...]

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If you enjoy this post, I write more posts like this on my Substack, How to Own a Revolutionary Craft Biz.  Check it out!

Note: I often write for my industry, and this is one of those such times.  The start of a year means the announcement of new brand ambassadorships! If you’ve ever thought of applying for one, please give these thoughts a read to see if that bright shiny opportunity really IS in your best interests.

Please note that I’m NOT saying you shouldn’t do it.  I am saying you should give ambassadorships very careful thought and evaluation, especially if your time is precious!

The Company You Keep

  • First of all, let’s take a look at the company: if you’re chosen, you’ll be publicly associated with them, and perhaps their other ambassadors – sort of like dating a celebrity. So it’s important to know if their values align with yours, should either of you decide to take a public stand about something.

  • Contracts: yes, this arrangement should have a contract, because contracts protect EVERYONE. If the company won’t offer or agree to a contract, then you can’t guarantee the terms, and you, being the littlest player in the partnership, are the one that’s most likely to lose if issues arise.
  • More contracts: the contract should ALSO outline what they are going to do for you, not just what you’re doing for them. Look… it’s exciting to be offered an opportunity, but don’t let the excitement make you ignore what YOU need from the arrangement.

Show Me The Money!

  • Usually, you will not be paid for ambassadorships in the kind of currency you can use at a grocery store.
  • Usually, you will receive exposure on their site and/or social media. In fact, you will probably be chosen based on your social media numbers to boost theirs, not just your design skills.

  • So let’s talk about the product you might get (and note that I’m in the quilt industry so this is thru the lens of quilt related products): sometimes ambassadorships don’t get the coveted fabrics… you get the stuff that’s not selling well (in the hopes that this promo effort will boost it). It’s painful to try to pull something nice out of a ho-hum line of fabric, and the success of that will reflect on your design skills, not on a fabric line that has issues.
  • OR you might have access to their entire fabric or product line, but have the limitation to using only that company’s products publicly for the duration of the ambassadorship. One colleague noted that this meant she couldn’t help promote a friend’s new fabric for a different company.
  • Also, let’s talk about the cost of that fabric… to you, at retail, it might be $13/yard, but to the company supplying it at cost, it’s about $3 or $4/yd. So they’re giving you about $30-40 in fabric for a lap quilt (and you still need to supply everything needed to finish it).

  • What are your skills worth? With a consensus that minimum wage should be $15/hr, let’s just say your hourly rate as a skilled sewist should be at least $25/hr (and this doesn’t take your design skill value into consideration). So you are receiving product valued at about two hours of your time, and the rest of the time you put into it is your “donation” to the project.
  • If you’re receiving an expensive tool or a machine, you’ll probably have to return it once you leave the ambassadorship

Time: the Non-Renewable Resource

  • You’ll be need to make things with the products supplied, often on a specific schedule. Do you have the time to dedicate to this? How does it fit with your personal/family schedule?

  • How long does it take you to design something? Write it up?  Test and edit it? Sew it/quilt it/finish it? How is that stacking up against your “wages” above?
  • And are you being realistic about your time estimates? Pssst… multiply it by three for a better estimate – trust me.

Social Media and Exposure

  • The company will expect you to promote them on your social media and blog.
  • They’ll tell you how to promote their product. But often, your arrangement will not specify what they will do for YOU. How many posts you’ll feature in.  Whether or not they are IG stories (that disappear), or if you could be the last slide in an IG carousel, etc. This is the exposure you’re working for, so it’s important to understand exactly what they’re promising.
  • How much time does it take you to photo your work? Write and schedule and interact with your blog and social media posts? Make and edit videos?
  • Research: Go look at their posts that promote other artists. What percentage of their following are interacting with those posts? Look at your own stats: do your promo posts get good traction, or does your following prefer something else? There’s nothing more frustrating that working hard on content that isn’t seen.

  • AND remember that all social media posts are at the whim of the ever-changing algorithms.  Everything we post is becomes the equivalent of the newspaper on the bottom of the digital birdcage pretty quickly.

Adding It Up

Based on your math, the cost of your time versus the value of the exposure,  are ambassadorship a good deal for you? Would it be better to buy the yardage/product/tool you like, and make things, on your own timeline, that excite you?

And if you add up those hours for a year, is there a bigger, better project you could take on that will move your business further?

 

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Studio Habits: Keep a List https://huntersdesignstudio.com/studio-habits-keep-a-list/ https://huntersdesignstudio.com/studio-habits-keep-a-list/#comments Tue, 16 Jan 2018 13:00:58 +0000 https://huntersdesignstudio.com/?p=6295 This is the first in an occasional series about building studio habits to ease your workflow. As we hit the middle of January, and I read across my social media feeds of everyone's epic plans to ramp up this and change that, I find myself retreating to my studio armchair with a cuppa to ponder [...]

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This is the first in an occasional series about building studio habits to ease your workflow.

As we hit the middle of January, and I read across my social media feeds of everyone’s epic plans to ramp up this and change that, I find myself retreating to my studio armchair with a cuppa to ponder what advice I would offer for giving your sewing practice an infusion of new year’s intentions.

Of course I have an ORANGE pillow!

No, I’m not going to give you an insurmountable list of how to be perfect – really, who needs ANY more of that! I find it beyond overwhelming to think I could change that many facets of my life in the single stroke of a late December midnight! But I do believe you can shift your life one thing at a time, thus I’m offering you ONE thing I think can improve your studio practice right now, and yes, it’s free, and doesn’t require you giving up chocolate 🙂

The Studio Project List 

 

Every time I work on a project, at the end of the day, I write down what I was working on and how much time I spent on the various stages of it. I break it into stages because I’m one of the weirdos who loves checking off small steps of larger projects.

I also use this to track the number of things I work on. Sometimes I get to the end of a year and feel like I didn’t accomplish enough, and this list usually sets me straight on that. We often forget the hours we put into making blocks here and there for various things, or don’t count the time we spend sewing things that are not quilts. For instance, I made 26 Chunky Wee Zippy Pouches, 2 Chunky Wee Bags, and a couple dozen blocks, pincushions, etc. in 2017, beyond the 47 quilts I finished!*

Lastly, by tracking these broad numbers as I work I’m better able to estimate the price of custom work, should someone ask me to make them a quilt. Estimating the cost of materials isn’t hard, but we usually have a tough time estimating the amount of labor we might put into something. Because I have this historical data, I can go back as see how many hours I put into any given quilt, which allows me to make a more accurate proposal. Even if you never plan to sell a quilt, knowing this number allows you to see if you actually have the time to make that last minute gift you though of!

Give it a try!

Feel free to use this document as a starting point for creating your own list using the categories that are important to YOUR practice.

And for a New Year’s blast from the past, I wrote this a couple of years ago – and I still wish all these things for you!

For more on tracking the value of what you make, go here.

* With MUCH help from Nancy and Kazumi, my trusty long-arm artists!

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Why Stealing Patterns is Like Killing the Goose That Laid the Golden Eggs https://huntersdesignstudio.com/why-stealing-patterns-is-like-killing-the-goose-that-laid-the-golden-eggs/ https://huntersdesignstudio.com/why-stealing-patterns-is-like-killing-the-goose-that-laid-the-golden-eggs/#comments Tue, 01 Aug 2017 13:38:30 +0000 https://huntersdesignstudio.com/?p=5771 It has happened AGAIN. Yep, stealing patterns, stealing content, copying pages from books. This time, it's in a Facebook group known as the Worldwide Quilting Group. The administrator, Sandy Stubbs, has been scraping tutorial and pattern content from other sites, stripping it of attribution or links to the original source, and posting it. MANY of [...]

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It has happened AGAIN. Yep, stealing patterns, stealing content, copying pages from books.

This time, it’s in a Facebook group known as the Worldwide Quilting Group. The administrator, Sandy Stubbs, has been scraping tutorial and pattern content from other sites, stripping it of attribution or links to the original source, and posting it. MANY of our well known designers have had their content stolen, some even had pages of books copied.

The image below is a tutorial that was stolen from Jacquie Gering’s site:

 

STEALING IS WRONG. We all learned this as wee kiddos, and it’s still the law of the land. Yes, this IS stealing. I know a lot of people think it isn’t because, hey, it’s all free on the internet, right? But no. If you take something that ISN’T yours, it’s stealing, plain and simple. And there is no polite euphemism for thievery. If you stole a car you’d go to jail.

So I imagine that a rationalization could be that it’s not stealing if the content was free at its original source. But here’s the thing… we post free content to be traffic drivers to our sites. WE ARE IN BUSINESS. Being in business means we aim to make a living, to earn money from our talent and skill. It’s a well-known business idea to offer tutorial content for free to bring customers to our site and hopefully get a sale out of them – it’s the loss-leader concept of internet commerce, and it operates on the similar premise of the deeply discounted stuff at a big box store on any given weekend. I know that some people think that sullying the sweet face of crafting with bold business marketing is somehow unsavory, but for heaven’s sake! All who work in quilting are businesswomen and men. We are here to earn a living.

And while our living is in jeopardy every time someone copies a pattern, or steals content like this group above, the people who really lose out are our customers. When we find out our work is stolen we get closer to quitting in disgust, and it certainly makes us pull back on our generosity. When we quit, our customers lose the ability to find great patterns to make. We are the Geese that Lay the Golden Eggs, and when our eggs are stolen, we die an inch at a time. Eventually there will be no more eggs.

EVERY SINGLE ONE of our customers is responsible for protecting the rich content we make. 

Think hard about that.

The Goose That Laid the Golden Eggs, illustrated by Milo Winter in a 1919 edition of Aesop’s Fables

Just about every quilt made relies as much on the pattern as it does on the fabric. And I can’t tell you how often I’ve heard “I spent all that money on fabric, I’m not spending another $10 on a pattern too.” And all I can say to that is, “Would you buy all the trimmings for thanksgiving dinner, and then steal the turkey?” No, you wouldn’t. And if you did, you’d be arrested.

So again, please:

**The above group blamed and attacked the content creators when they were challenged, and have since blocked anyone who brings up that this content is stolen. They have also hidden the group now. This is so very disappointing, and I hope that other members in the group continue to report their crimes outside the group. A classy group would have stayed public, apologized, deleted stolen content, and attributed/linked up free tutorials. 

And to those of you who DO pay for everything… blessings upon you and may your threads be never tangled! Thanks for hanging in with another post about stealing patterns. And yes… I’ll stop writing about theft when it stops happening.

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WASWI: Asking for better than you get https://huntersdesignstudio.com/waswi-asking-for-better-than-you-get/ https://huntersdesignstudio.com/waswi-asking-for-better-than-you-get/#comments Fri, 10 Feb 2017 14:00:33 +0000 https://huntersdesignstudio.com/?p=4994 Here's part of an email I just sent to a company that buys patterns from me. Yet again, my payment was not made in a timely fashion. I sadly deal with more than one company who doesn't start processing my payments until they are on the cusp of due, which means by the time the [...]

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Here’s part of an email I just sent to a company that buys patterns from me. Yet again, my payment was not made in a timely fashion.

I sadly deal with more than one company who doesn’t start processing my payments until they are on the cusp of due, which means by the time the check is cut, signed, stuck in an envelope, mailed (usually on a Friday) and finally in my mailbox, it’s about 10 days overdue.

Imagine using this rationale with your credit card company. Right.

I don’t understand why a company would choose to build a process that essentially abuses their suppliers.

Their business is built on people like me making the things they want to sell. I’m the little gal at the end of the chain. I suppose I could short my long-arm artist, or screw over my assistant or printer to make up for it. But I’m not going to do that. I need what these people offer to the success of my business. Besides, it’s not who I am. I can do better than that.

And so can they.

Imagine an industry built on respecting each other, and making agreements that help EVERYONE rise. If we can create a $4 Billion industry out of the passion of hobbyists, surely we can create supportive and kind business practices.

Dear (person at company)

Thank you for your efforts to track this payment down. I appreciate it.

My agreement with you is for Net 30. This means that this invoice should have been paid in time for me to receive it by January 29th, not cut on February 2 and then mailed (and still not received as of today’s mail delivery on Feb 9)

What can be done to prevent this delay from happening again? I’m sure you can relate to my needing to rely on income coming when it’s supposed to, not to mention the cost of the time I have to spend chasing down payment that could be put to far better use – like making more things for our customers.

I realize a lot of companies in the quilt world have gotten by on this type of slow paying, and obviously suppliers like me are at your mercy.

But I’d like not to be. I’d like our agreement to be respected as a partnership where we both do what we say we are going to do, and we do it in a way that supports each other’s business goals, and respects what we have to offer each other.

My responsibility is that I make something that you can make money from, and that I ship it when you ask for it. And may I point out that you make DOUBLE what I make on this transaction (your profit is about $7, mine is about $3.50). Without designers making patterns for your customers, your business will eventually peter out. Yes, we will lose your sales but we still have other avenues through which to sell.

Your responsibility is to pay me in such a way that it honors our agreement and partnership. I truly don’t understand why your would create a process that essentially abuses your partners. Why would you want to?

And my hope is that you can change it.

Sincerely,

Sam

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The Personal and the Political https://huntersdesignstudio.com/the-personal-and-the-political/ https://huntersdesignstudio.com/the-personal-and-the-political/#comments Tue, 24 Jan 2017 14:00:10 +0000 https://huntersdesignstudio.com/?p=4893 Yes, I've been quiet of late. It's been one helluva season... I moved house and studio in early December, my delightfully dodgy heart landed me in the hospital (again) during the holidays, I'm sore and shaken from a recent car accident, and we've had this huge, traumatically divisive election season. I got quiet because I [...]

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Yes, I’ve been quiet of late. It’s been one helluva season… I moved house and studio in early December, my delightfully dodgy heart landed me in the hospital (again) during the holidays, I’m sore and shaken from a recent car accident, and we’ve had this huge, traumatically divisive election season. I got quiet because I was (and am) taking care of myself and other things that were higher up the list than blogging. But a facet of the truth is that I’ve been struggling with what to say.

Readers desire a certain amount of intimacy with the lives of their writers. We want to know what’s going on personally, thinking that if we understand a bit of what’s behind the green curtain, we can better relate to the parts we can see. Women like to discover the things we have in common with each other – it helps us build community. And like most writers, I share things with you to help build connections in our relationship. I’m cool with telling you a little about my life, home, and family, and I appreciate the stories you write back to me, too. But with any sharing comes a fear of being shunned for what you say and how you appear, and in business, one has to always consider what the costs of speaking publicly might be.

As a formally educated artist, I’m comfortable with the concept of blending the personal and the political. Arts aside, we make political decisions all the time, most of them consciously motivated. I have friends whose diets are influenced by their thoughts on how meat is raised, or which companies create the toxic chemicals used on our food. We can make these types of decisions about ANYTHING; for instance, I bought recycled printer paper last week… it was a conscious choice. I guess what I’m saying is that I can’t really separate the personal and the political – and nor do I think it’s necessary to do so.

 

So, what that means here, at Hunter’s Design Studio, is that sometimes I get visibly political. While my life is full of fabric and patterns and friends who need a hand with their blog tours, it’s also full of thoughts and worries about things that are going on in the world. And when it weighs heavily on me, I write about it. It means that I’m going to say/write what I think, and that I’m going to take a stand – I don’t really know how to be any other way. It means I’ll listen to a well-reasoned response even if I don’t agree with it (and I think we ALL need to improve at listening to opposing views), but I’ll delete pure hate and hostility. It means that YOU get to know who you’re doing business with. And as I’ve said before, you are always welcome to not hang out here with me – just scroll by or unfollow; I will bid you adieu and wish you nothing but the best.

I’m taking a stand out in the world for the same things I have taken a stand for within the quilting industry as part of We Are $ew Worth It. I want women to earn as much as their male counterparts, and I want them recognized and respected equally. I want our industry and country to be fair and welcoming to our differences, and inclusive of the broad diversity we encompass. I want opportunities to be available to more than just the people of privilege. I want us to take care of each other in our dealings. I want every person to understand their value to their community, quilting or otherwise. And I really want us to start embracing the shades of gray in everything, rather than standing in rigid absolutes at the opposite poles of any argument.

So many bad things in history have happened because people were afraid to speak up. As women we are cultured to NOT speak up, to NOT rock the boat, to NOT make waves. As a woman business owner, the pressure to be seemly is doubled down with a dose of economic fear: don’t rock the boat or people might not buy your product. And I guess I’ll just have to roll with that because I’m done with being quiet about the things that outrage me, and the time for silence is long gone.

No, I’m not going to be ranting here daily, but you can count on me to have an opinion. And you can definitely count on me to speak up for people who need a champion.

Just wanted you to know that. And now that I’ve said it, maybe I can get back to writing other things too 🙂

 

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WASWI – One of My Patterns Has Been Plagiarized https://huntersdesignstudio.com/waswi-one-of-my-patterns-has-been-plagiarized/ https://huntersdesignstudio.com/waswi-one-of-my-patterns-has-been-plagiarized/#comments Tue, 09 Aug 2016 13:00:58 +0000 https://huntersdesignstudio.com/?p=4244   I'm pretty steamed. I've discovered that someone who bought my Chunky Wee Zippy Pouches pattern has ripped it off, obviously believing the "just change 5 things or X percent and you're safe" nonsense. Whatever the nuts and bolts of copyright law might state about what is in the public domain and what can't be protected on [...]

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I’m pretty steamed.

I’ve discovered that someone who bought my Chunky Wee Zippy Pouches pattern has ripped it off, obviously believing the “just change 5 things or X percent and you’re safe” nonsense.

Chunky Wee Zippy Pouches features three different sizes of zippy pouches. One is long and thin - a pencil pouch, the other is rectangle shaped, and the third is cube shaped.

Whatever the nuts and bolts of copyright law might state about what is in the public domain and what can’t be protected on a pattern for a functional product, it’s just freaking WRONG to plagiarize someone else’s stuff to make money from it.

Look. Most of this industry is made up of nice women, women who often get railroaded by corporate policies that abuse our niceness. We should be looking out for each other, supporting each other, protecting each other. NOT STEALING FROM EACH OTHER. If you have to hide behind the minutiae of copyright law to justify your actions you KNOW you are doing something slimy. So don’t do it. Just DON’T.

If you want to write patterns, then by all means come up with an original idea, and find your way to executing it. When I set out to write this pattern, I hadn’t ever owned nor made any other zipper pouch pattern. I decided I wanted to make a pattern that had a formula for making ANY size you could dream up, and I made a dozen samples getting to that. Yes, I have boxed corners in bags before – there are really only two ways to do it – and I chose the technique that works most accurately for me for the pouch. I didn’t steal anyone’s drawings on how to construct the pouch, I looked at the one in my hand and drew my illustrations from observation. Is it the first ever zippy pouch pattern? Nope. Will it be the last? Nope. Is it all my own work? YES.

Designing is hard work. You have to have your finger on the pulse of the industry to keep current on trends, and at the same time, you need NOT to be looking at too much other stuff or it will pollute your head. For instance, if there is a trend of flying geese going on, by all means design something goose-y with your favorite construction method, but start with a blank slate when you do.

The person who stole my pattern came up with handles to add to it. If you have such an idea, the appropriate way to handle it is like Elizabeth at Occasional Piece did with her modifications to make a mini Sew Together Bag. She wrote her mods in such a way that they did not divulge the content of the original pattern, and then offered it for free on her blog. Bravo. New idea shared, original idea protected. Boom.

If you can’t generate your own ideas yet, you aren’t ready for the prime time arena of the pattern design industry. Despite what might look like overnight successes to an observer, it takes a LOT of work to become decent at this, and even those of us who’ve been at it a while sweat every pattern we attempt. You have to sew a LOT of other stuff to be able to discern and design good construction techniques, and you need to learn expensive software (or hire expensive help) to present your writing and drawings/photos well. What you don’t see is the seventeen tries to get it right before we send it out, nor the anguish that consumes us when, despite our best efforts, an error slips through. You don’t see the teams of unsung testers that help out. You don’t see the mounting scraps of expensive fabric sacrificed to the process. Pattern design involves several learning curves and shortcutting them with plagiarism is not only bad form, it cheats you of the skills you ought acquire to create a long lasting design career.

While I don’t think my plagiarist is an inherently evil or vindictive person*, her willingness to “dabble in pattern design” by dancing on my toes smacks of an ignorance born of casual disregard for what it takes to survive in this industry. She thought she could make a quick buck. While I fully acknowledge that I do this for money, there is no quick buck involved in a carefully crafted pattern. I have somewhere close to 60 hours invested in Chunky Wee Zippy Pouches, from pondering the first idea to sending the first pattern to a distributor, to say nothing of the fabric, fusibles and zippers I ate up along the way. I also write patterns because I care deeply about creating a happy experience for our makers. I want people to enjoy quilting so they do more of it, not give them poorly written crap that wastes their time and their fabric, not to mention makes them want to quit the craft.

While I’m angry that my pattern was poached, I’m even more frustrated with the time this has cost me – time I could have used to design something new to grow my pattern business. I have had to research copyright law, capture screen shots of her website and Facebook pages to support my case, consult my colleagues and legal team, talk to the person that did it (and no, it was no fun to do that), write a Cease and Desist letter, and make a trip to the post office to send it certified. I have had to send pictures of her patterns to my distributors to request that they not purchase them as they are based on mine. I’ve wasted a ton of time trying to get calm about it, and formulating an action plan. I probably could have made a whole new design in the time this has cost – and it’s a loss I’ll never recoup.

In conclusion, I just want to appeal to a higher morality amongst us, regardless of any convoluted points of law. Don’t steal from or undercut your fellow humans. We face enough battles without being attacked by people who should be our peers. Up your game and we all win, truly. #WASWI

Thanks for reading.

Sam Signature

* I am choosing not to name this person, nor link to her because I believe that it could turn ugly. I’ve seen and experienced enough nasty internet hate to believe that few people, if any, who receive it, deserve it. I sincerely hope she appreciates that.

 

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The High Cost of Discount Pricing https://huntersdesignstudio.com/the-high-cost-of-discount-pricing/ https://huntersdesignstudio.com/the-high-cost-of-discount-pricing/#comments Tue, 19 Apr 2016 13:02:51 +0000 https://huntersdesignstudio.com/?p=3480 If you enjoy this post, I write more posts like this on my Substack, How to Own a Revolutionary Craft Biz.  Check it out! Everybody loves a bargain. Scoring something on sale is a modern day hunter/gatherer coup of the first order, a proof positive that you are conducting your life with thrifty adult aplomb. [...]

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If you enjoy this post, I write more posts like this on my Substack, How to Own a Revolutionary Craft Biz.  Check it out!

Everybody loves a bargain. Scoring something on sale is a modern day hunter/gatherer coup of the first order, a proof positive that you are conducting your life with thrifty adult aplomb.

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But the push for sale prices is eroding the quilting (and other) industries.

Many chain stores have resorted to constant discounting as a way to keep the sales moving, and what this has done is teach their buyers that the listed price of a thing is a number that only fools without coupons pay. And that even if you’re lacking the coupon or mobile store app, everything will be on sale at some point during the next six weeks if you’re willing to be patient.

This just isn’t sustainable. Putting things on sale is a great way to get some fast income, but it’s always followed by a slow period because your customers already spent their money. Once a store puts everything on sale all the time, it’s close to impossible to go back, and it dooms them to cutting back in other ways to make up the lost income.

The long standing formula for a retail price was one built to pay everyone decently at every tier. If I give you an example using one of my $10 patterns sold through a distributor to a store, the cut goes like this: I get $3.50 (out of which come my material costs), the distributor gets $1.50, and the store gets $5. The store gets the lion’s share because they bear the biggest cost of keeping the lights on and paying talented people to help you, and the highest cost per square foot of their retail space.

Let’s apply this to a chain store like Joann’s. If they are making it possible for you to buy that $10 pattern for $6 with a coupon, they are losing $4 on that sale. How that has manifested at Joann’s is that the stores have devolved to being (under)staffed by mostly part-time people (who get no benefits), who don’t know a voile from a velour, and who are mistreated by the company in ways that not a one of us would voluntarily subject ourselves to if other options were available.

And do we really want to be a part of making that happen?

This perpetual discount model has educated us to believe that a $32 rotary cutter is really a $19 product with the coupon. But if the true price (from one end of the manufacturing process to the store) is $32, then that’s what we should be paying.

The next problem with this is we take the “I want everything on sale” attitude to our local quilt stores. I’ll let you in on a secret… no one wakes up imagining that that the fast way to get rich is to own a quilt store. They work hard for the money. And for the most part, they are staffed with the kind of people that can calculate how much border fabric you need without missing a beat. Good quilt store employees are SKILLED workers, and so they deserve better than minimum wage. And if the store is doing it right, they are getting the latest and greatest for you, and making samples of it to inspire you (even my speediest quilts take me a couple of days each to finish). There is a LOT of love in the labor.

Trust me – I know that quilting is expensive. But I also know that it is, as my dear friend Maddie Kertay at BadAss Quilters’ Society once said to me, a luxury sport. If you want to play it, there is a certain investment in the equipment that goes with the game. You are not going to die if you don’t quilt. While it might be emotionally necessary to your well-being, it isn’t critical like food, or heating, or gas for your car.

No one OWES you the right to quilt, nor to have the materials and tools for cheap. If you want to quilt cheaply, you absolutely can. You can acquire the fabrics at thrift stores and opt for doing it all by hand, dispensing with the need for a machine – or scour the same thrift stores for a lucky machine find. If your income is fixed (and seriously, whose isn’t?) you definitely have decisions to make regarding where you spend your pennies. But just because you want it cheaper doesn’t mean you get to have it cheaper – if that logic were true I’d be demanding my rightful Porsche, and my McMansion with singing woodland creatures to keep it clean for me!

If we, as consumers, don’t start supporting the small businesses, they will disappear (just look at dearth of bookstores). There will be no local quilt shop with the carefully curated fabric selection, nor the sweet woman who works on Wednesdays and knows how to find the exact blue you need. All there will be is a sea of chain stores with limited selection and harried staff who can’t help you beyond pointing down the aisle.

Yes, I know, buying a new rotary blade full price might cost you the equivalent of two frothy coffees instead of one (or three fat quarters instead of two), but consider it an investment in having the best quilting community possible. You want to be a part of that, right? Yes! Because otherwise, we’ll be condemning ourselves to nothing more than chain stores.

At some point each of us needs to step up to invest in the health of our industry. Consider it the quilting version of eating your spinach or whipping up a green smoothie.

It’s in our hands. Let’s go do something about it.

~~

For other reads on this:

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WASWI – Raising your prices, not working for free https://huntersdesignstudio.com/waswi-raising-your-prices-not-working-for-free-and-a-new-alliance/ Thu, 03 Dec 2015 13:00:22 +0000 https://huntersdesignstudio.com/?p=2747 There have been some great discussions out on the interwebs, of late, covering some thoughts on pricing and working for free. These are definitely worth your time! First: Karen McTavish on the Crafty Planner Podcast. At about minute 42, Sandi and Karen start discussing the pricing for long-arm services. Karen makes her version of the point [...]

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There have been some great discussions out on the interwebs, of late, covering some thoughts on pricing and working for free. These are definitely worth your time!

First: Karen McTavish on the Crafty Planner Podcast. At about minute 42, Sandi and Karen start discussing the pricing for long-arm services. Karen makes her version of the point I’m always trying to make: When you undercut yourself, you undercut EVERYONE. She believes that as you get better, you should raise your prices, then the new folks coming up behind you can earn a decent rate too. AMEN.

The rest of the podcast is great also, as Karen talks about her unlikely journey to being the Karen McTavish – and she’s a funny lady to boot!

Second: This WONDERFUL video shows how nuts it is to be asked to work for free in other industries outside of the arts. In two and a half very short minutes, the point is beautifully made, especially by the old chap in the restaurant! There are some great points about being a professional who gets paid for their time, and keeping ownership of one’s intellectual property.

We Are $ew Worth It!

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WASWI – How you use your time https://huntersdesignstudio.com/waswi-how-you-use-your-time/ https://huntersdesignstudio.com/waswi-how-you-use-your-time/#comments Thu, 08 Oct 2015 13:00:20 +0000 https://huntersdesignstudio.com/?p=2648 A friend messaged over the weekend, asking for help to price a commission. We went over the costs of materials, and the time it might take to make. Yes, it does come down to time and money. As with all work, you are effectively making a trade in hours/materials for cash. But here's another factor [...]

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A friend messaged over the weekend, asking for help to price a commission. We went over the costs of materials, and the time it might take to make.

Yes, it does come down to time and money. As with all work, you are effectively making a trade in hours/materials for cash.

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But here’s another factor to think about in the trading of hours: those are hours of YOUR precious time, time that you get to spend only once. If the gig in question will cost you hours with people you care about, or neglecting projects that matter more to you, then the cost of that is in play, too.

Bottom line – don’t get underpaid, but even more so, don’t get underpaid while cheating yourself out of what is most important to YOU. Keeping this in sight will make the decision process easier!

HDS Sew Worth It LOGO

(Image borrowed from here)

 

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